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PIETRO - 2009

Measurements of the wave-induced steady currents outside the surf zone

The project is aimed at obtaining data about the fluid velocity induced by the propagation of a water wave focusing the attention to the steady currents induced by the wave itself. The measurements will provide instantaneous velocity profiles, offshore of the surf zone, at different positions along both the sloping beach and the horizontal part of the wave flume. The data will be elaborated in order to obtain statistical quantities such as the ensemble-averaged velocity profiles, the steady streaming and the Reynolds stresses. The results, apart to provide new insights into the distribution of the steady current at a scale 1:2 with respect to nature, they will allow to assess the existing methodologies to estimate the Eulerian drift and to develop new ones.
Publication References:
  • Van der Werf, J. J., Doucette, J. S., O’Donoghue, T. and Ribberink, J. S. (2007) Detailed measurements of velocities and suspended sediment concentrations over full-scale ripples in regular oscillatory flow, J. of Geoph. Res. 112 (F02012).
  • Scandura, P. 2007 Steady streaming in a turbulent oscillating boundary layer. J. Fluid Mech. 571, pp. 265-280.
  • Davies, A. G. and Villaret, C. 1999 Eulerian drift induced by progressive waves above rippled and very rough beds. J. of Geoph. Res., 104, (C1): 1465-1488.
  • Ribberink, J. S. and Al-Salem, A. A. (1995) Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers. Coastal Eng. 25, 205-225.